Eggnog has become one of Christmas’ classic drinks, readily identified with the Yuletide season for many years. Starting off as the medieval drink posset, it has evolved into the eggnog that we enjoy today around this time of year. Eggnog and variants on eggnog have become popular around the world, becoming a favourite of two U.S. presidents and even starting a riot south of the border. According to Statistics Canada, it is also quite sought after here, with more than 5.9 million litres of eggnog being sold to thirsty Canadians in December 2018. The Canadian military has even come up with its own strong version of it called Moose milk. To honour National Eggnog Month (December) and National Eggnog Day (Dec. 24), here is a bit of history and trivia about this creamy, delicious, festive and storied drink.
During the early medieval period in Britain, eggnog began as a drink called posset. It was made from hot milk curdled with ale, wine or sherry and was often sweetened or spiced. Whipped eggs made their way into posset later on, most likely added in by monks in the 13th century, who also added in figs. More popular with the upper classes due to the high price of milk, eggs, and sherry at that time, posset was therefore often used to toast good health and prosperity.
The origins of the name eggnog are in dispute, as some say that it comes from “noggin” which means wooden cup, or “grog” which was a strong beer. By the late 18th century, the name eggnog had stuck and it is in use to this day.
Eggnog became linked to the Christmas season when it came over to North America in the 1700s. The earliest connection in print between eggnog and Christmas can be found in the Virginia Chronicle from 1793.
With the prevalence of chickens and cows on American farms, and the greater and less expensive access to eggs and milk, eggnog became quite popular on this side of the Atlantic Ocean. Sherry, brandy, and madeira (a fortified wine) were too costly as they were heavily taxed, so they gave way to whisky and rum as the latter two were less expensive. The winter months were also ideal for it to be consumed as the cold weather provided a natural refrigerating effect for the eggnog, while any whisky or rum added to it helped prevent the spread of salmonella bacteria from the raw eggs used in its creation. Modern recipes for eggnog suggest using pasteurized egg yolks to avoid getting food poisoning.
Possets, the precursor to eggnog, would feature in Shakespeare’s play MacBeth, first performed in 1606 and first published in 1623. The Mickey Finns (a drugged drink) that Lady MacBeth used to knock out King Duncan’s guards were concealed in possets. The first written use of the word eggnog in America is from a 1775 comic poem by English clergyman and philologist Jonathan Boucher, who worked in Virginia and Maryland in the 1760s and 1770s, but the poem was not published until 1834. The first printed use of the word eggnog was in 1788, in an article in the New Jersey Journal. Eggnog consumption by American travellers also appears in Isaac Weld’s Travels through the States of North America and the Provinces of Upper and Lower Canada during the years 1795, 1796 and 1797.
George Washington, the first president of the United States, served an eggnog drink to visitors at his Mount Vernon estate at Christmastime, which included one pint of brandy, half a pint of rye whiskey and Jamaican rum, and a quarter of a pint of sherry, with one quart of milk and cream, one dozen tablespoons of sugar and 12 separated eggs. According to Washington’s notes, the eggnog was to cool in place for several days and be tasted frequently.
Eggnog also had a place in the heart of the 34th U.S. president, Dwight Eisenhower. His eggnog recipe, made years later by the National Journal, a publication aimed at government affairs professionals, said that that Eisenhower’s or Ike’s recipe called for a dozen egg yolks, one pound of granulated sugar, one quart of bourbon, one quart of coffee cream, and one quart of whipping cream. They found the finished drink “very alcoholic, and a surprisingly light and creamy nog.” They concluded that “nothing could get you drunk faster than Ike’s eggnog.”
Eggnog caused a riot at West Point military academy in 1826, appropriately called either the Eggnog Riot or the Grog Mutiny. Up until 1826, cadets would have an annual Christmas party, where they would indulge in spiked eggnog. When their new superintendent forbade any alcohol consumption during their holiday festivities, the cadets smuggled in alcohol, and this led to a raucous night of fights, busted windows and many a hangover. When the dust settled, nearly 20 cadets were expelled, and the cadet Christmas party at West Point has been cancelled ever since.
Eggnog also has several variants enjoyed around the world. Moose milk is a tongue in cheek tradition in the Canadian military, a high liquor content concoction that was called “high propulsion eggnog” by retired Canadian army major Michael Boire. Mexico has its own style of eggnog called rompope, with Mexican cinnamon and vanilla, and Puerto Rico has the coquito which adds coconut milk to the mix. In Peru, it is called biblia con pisco, as it is made with the Peruvian pomace brandy called pisco, while in Venezuela and Trinidad they drink a variety called ponche crema. Germany has the biersuppe which has beer, and the eierpunsch, which uses white wine, lemon or lime juice, tea and cloves in addition to the regular eggnog ingredients. The Dutch version, advocaat, is used as a dessert cream.
So, is eggnog good for your health or not so good for your health? While it is loaded with calories, fat and added sugar, which is not good for you if consumed in excess, the fact that it is made with eggs, milk cinnamon and nutmeg, means that it is loaded with vitamins and nutrients, which are good for you, if consumed in moderation. Also, it’s best to avoid raw separated eggs, as they can cause food poisoning. It is best to use pasteurized egg yolks. And then there’s the issue of what liquor you mix with it. Whether you choose run, whisky, brandy, or something else, moderation is always healthiest.
Ode to Eggnog is a comic poem on this festive beverage whose author remains unknown to this day:
“If you see a fat man, who’s jolly and cute,
Wearing a beard and a red flannel suit
And if he is chuckling and laughing away
While flying around in a miniature sleigh
With eight tiny reindeer to pull him along
Then, let’s face it, your eggnog’s too strong!”
So, go enjoy a glass or two of eggnog this Christmas season, with or without your favourite liquor. Just don’t use so much liquor that you start to see a jolly bearded man with his posse of reindeer hanging out on your roof. Merry Christmas everyone!
